Moda

TERNO, PALETÓ, BLAZER OU SMOKING! QUAL A DIFERENÇA? ONDE E COMO USAR?

27 de junho de 2016
FotoJet Collage

Terno, paletó, blazer, smoking e Black Tie. Tem  amigos que as vezes me perguntam como usar, onde usar e porque usar? Apesar de parecerem muito iguais, existem diferenças entre eles que são decisivas.

Então vamos ver se consigo ajudar, mesmo porque as vezes a mulher fica na dúvida e também não sabe como ajudar o marido, o namorado ou amigo.

Terno

Vou falar primeiro do terno, porque ele que puxa todas as outras peças de roupa, mas, na verdade, ele não é uma peça. O terno é um traje composto por três peças: calça, paletó e colete.

O termo paletó vem do francês paletot, que é uma espécie de jaqueta ou sobretudo. Ele tem a modelagem mais sóbria, de alfaiataria, podendo ou não ter bolsos externos. A peça faz parte do conjunto do terno, que é composto ainda por calça e colete do mesmo tecido. Clássico, atemporal e extremamente formal, deve ser usado com camisa social, gravata e sapato.

Quanto a cor da camisa e a gravata muito cuidado. Na dúvida para não errar na camisa, a branca é certeira de não fazer feio e fica mais difícil errar na gravata também. Precisa de muito cuidado para inovar, principalmente se a camisa tiver detalhes, o visual  poderá ficar muito carregado.

Farei um post mais detalhado sobre isto depois.

Comprimento e tamanho do paletó:

O ponto mais importante é observar como ele está nos ombros: não pode sobrar, nem estar justo. Deve estar exato. Repare, também, se as ombreiras não estão grandes demais.

O próximo passo é o  comprimento, o ideal é na altura dos quadris ( é fácil, vista o paletó e com os braços esticados alcance o fim do paletó, o comprimento correto no caso do terno , é com as mãos dobradas).

As mangas, para estarem certas, precisam estar com o comprimento na altura da junção do pulso e da mão, para que fique com um dedo de camisa aparecendo.

Hoje, o terno é muito usado para trabalhos mais formais ou festas, normalmente sem o colete. Nos casamentos, por exemplo, costuma o colete ser usado pelo noivo para se diferenciar dos convidados e padrinhos.

O comprimento correto da calça deve ser:

Este é o comprimento que toda calça deve ter, fica muito feio sobrando no pé, além de deixar o corpo achatado .

Detalhes opcionais: a barra da calça pode ser italiana, ou seja, dobrada para fora. Mas esse modelo só é permitido para homens com pernas longas. Eu particularmente acho que ela não deixa tão elegante, talvez por estar um pouco fora de moda, então acho que  deve se esperar  quando a moda voltar, hahahahaha. O ideal é usar o da foto acima, barra reta!

Sapatos

Para não errar, prefira os sapatos pretos, com cinto preto ( se seu terno for feito sob medida, provavelmente não será necessário o uso do cinto) e meias pretas, mas caso opte por outras cores de sapato para inovar tem o marrom ou tom de vinho, mas estas cores NUNCA com terno preto.

Importante: As meias devem sempre combinar com o sapato ou a calça; o cinto e o sapato são sempre da mesma cor.

Regras para uso do paletó e terno:

Para sentar, não esqueça de desabotoar o paletó;

Jamais abotoe o último botão de um paletó transpassado;

Não use relógios esportivos com paletó.

Posso usar o paletó do terno separado?

Há quem diga que sim, principalmente se você for viajar  para maximizar as suas opções, ao mesmo tempo que se economiza no volume da mala. Também é uma boa se valer dessa maximização de peças, quando o dinheiro não está sobrando.

Mas eu penso que se  você tem um belo terno,  um dia resolve usar apenas o paletó e montar um look casual com um jeans, ok  você  está “economizando”, mas deixou a calça do terno no cabide , está desgastando mais uma peça que a outra e, provavelmente, quando for usar as duas novamente, a parte de cima do traje estará mais desbotada e opaca, enquanto a parte de baixo estará brilhando de nova. O resultado não será muito bonito, pois passará a impressão de que você está usando peças de dois ternos diferentes, aí, sua “economia” foi por água abaixo, terá que comprar um terno novo.

Então a minha opinião é que não se deve usar separado o paletó do seu conjunto, mas quem DECIDE É VOCÊ!!

Corretos!

Esta foto acima ,  mostra que um terno bem feito pode ser reconhecido a metros de distância, ele é harmonioso e equilibrado. Deixa o homem mais elegante.

Para completar é bom saber que basicamente existem 3 tipos de ternos masculinos onde variam caimento, lapelas, bolsos e até o número de fendas nas costas dos paletós, não importando detalhes como cor, padrões, tecido ou número de botões. Cada um deles tem suas peculiaridades e se encaixam em diferentes estilos de homem, o que não impede que você tenha todos, desde que sinta-se confortável e fique elegante nos 3 modelos.

Corte Italiano

Acinturado; Mangas estreitas; justo no peito, mas não grudado no corpo;Calça cós baixo;  Mais seco nas coxas; Ombros bem estruturados; Lapelas largas em formato notched; Cintura do paletó mais justa; Bolso sem aba, conhecido como besom ou slash; Sem fendas na parte traseira do paletó.

Corte Inglês

Solto; Levemente acinturado; Calça mais acertada ao corpo; Pouco acolchoamento nos ombros; Lapelas finas, formato notched; Bolsos com abas, conhecido como flap; 2 Fendas traseiras influência de quando era comum andar a cavalo, pois elas caiam melhor sobre a sela.

Corte Clássico ou Americano

Caimento reto e confortável; Ombros com estrutura moderada; Lapelas notch ou peak; Ligeiramente acinturado; Bolsos flap ou slash; Apenas uma fenda.

 

O Slim fit
Trata-se do caimento mais ajustado que pode ser aplicado em cada um destes modelos citados, portanto não é considerado exatamente um corte.

Jaquetão: modelo confortável com algumas restrições para usá-lo. É indicado para homens altos e magros e deve ser usado sempre fechado. Mas não tão em moda nos dias de hoje.

 

Paletó

O paletó é a parte de cima do terno. Ele é uma peça bem formal, mas pouco modelada ao corpo.  Paletó pode ser encontrado em diferentes cores para eventos durante a noite ou para o dia.

O paletó sempre precisa ser acompanhado de uma camisa social e calça da mesma cor e tecido. Ele é uma peça bem rígida que não permite muitas variações nesse ponto. Sempre bem alinhado e mais sério.

O tamanho e comprimento já falei acima.

 

Blazer

O blazer  é uma variação muito mais informal do paletó. Um social menos exigente. São peças bem parecidas, mas o blazer é mais despojado, podendo ser encontrado em diferentes cores e tecidos.

Diferente dos paletós, o blazer é comprado em peças avulsas, não segue um padrão de corte e pode ser usado em visuais informais, inclusive com calça jeans e chino. Por isso, o blazer é a melhor opção para um esporte fino, mas evite as calças jeans e chino neste caso.

Está se perguntando o que é uma chino?  Chino é uma calça (ou bermuda) que possuem uma carinha de calça de alfaiataria, mas são de algodão/ sarja. É fácil identificar! Olhe os bolsos, se eles forem retos ( o famoso bolso clássico faca), são chinos e se forem arredondados, são jeans!

Uma ideia bem jovem e descontraída é usar o blazer no dia a dia com camiseta ou camisa para fora. Mas vou deixar este assunto para outro post.

Fotos com o blazer informal, nenhum para uma ocasião mais formal ( esporte fino), seria mais um fino descontraído, ahahahhahahaha

blazer

blazers1

Muitas variações com o blazer, ele é o mais criativo.

Smoking ou Black Tie

O smoking, é o visual mais formal de todos e, por isso, muito escolhido por artistas em grandes premiações da música e do cinema, como o Oscar e usado em muitos bailes de formatura.

Esse é um visual composto por calça, paletó e gravata borboleta. Porém, o paletó do smoking tem uma diferença essencial para o paletó do terno. No smoking, a lapela é de cetim, o que dá um ar muito elegante para o visual. Normalmente, esse traje é encontrado apenas no preto. Hoje, já é possível achar smokings coloridos, mas sempre com a lapela em cetim preto.

Como uma boa mãe coruja, não consegui deixar de mostrar meu filho de smoking se formando em direito Mackenzie em 2014, me desculpem, ahhahahaha

Neste caso ele colocou a gravata vermelha por ser a cor do “direito”, mas a tradicional é a preta.

O Black Tie é uma determinação feita por anfitriões de festas exigindo que seus participantes masculinos se vistam de smokings com gravatas pretas, sem preocupar com modelos específicos. Essa determinação normalmente é dada em festas que valorizem a imagem de seus participantes de maneira homogênea, além de dar um ar mais elegante a todo o ambiente.

Então, ficou alguma dúvida? Pergunta aqui pra eu poder te ajudar.

Aguardem os próximos que vou escrever sobre a combinação da camisa e gravata, e o uso do blazer com camiseta ou camisa para fora da calça.

Beijinhos 

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